Monday, February 7, 2011

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Cairanne: Who would have thought?


Years as friend Marcel Richaud fights for recognition wines from his village. Years to refine its vintages of a hand by joining the other, neighboring vineyards. evenings to bone up with colleagues, administrative dictionaries, standards of INAO and European orders. A decade, in short, to make more than Cairanne "Cote-du-Rhone village" among others ... To make a AOC . "A Cru , as he said with stars in their eyes.
"This time, it is near the end, confirms Denis Alary, the Chairman of the winegrowers' association . It was the obstacle course. But the next few weeks will be held the last commission meeting. Next we must define the territory of the Term ... Within two years it will be good. "This
that afternoon, the " union " gathered his supporters in Paris, under moldings Macéo , to enjoy the most beautiful flowers in the future Cru. The youngest ( the photo, Romain Roche and Alain Boisson ) went behind the bar. Glass in hand, there is Jean-Claude Dassier, head of the OM, the sommelier Philippe Faure Brac and the inevitable Marc Sibard ... Some restaurateurs advised, of journalist friends ... Hearing the "President" conclude his little speech, a few ears perk. Others raise their eyes squarely:
"Two years to draw a map that corresponds to the centimeter the delimitation of the town? Question speed, it will not be remembered!" slips a winemaker fatalistic.
At the next table, a smile floats on the lips of Frédéric Alary . Amateur white, he sipped the tasty connoisseur Castel Mireïo his colleague "Dede" Berthet-Rayne . As an experienced chess player, he knows that only patience pay. But it still heats up when he mentions the standards demanded by the INAO :
"You know what we went through," he laughs (photo below). We were asked to determine a "height of trellis" ... From "trellis" ! While most of us lead our Grenache goblet! A "topping up" , too. .. As if the wind was the same everywhere and that he would break the vines cut-off standards ... Hold on tight, we even wanted to fix the "color intensity" of Cairanne. Because that Syrah is fashionable and it is very colorful ... As if one could accept or reject a wine by its color! "
But no matter, for Marcel, the bulk is done. ... And with the way Where others falling over, and men women Cairanne, bios, bio-dynamic and "reasoned" , independent and cooperative, fought together to lift up their colors. Yes, no pun intended: who knew?

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